Divas, Headscarves, and Pumpkins

Last week a Big Important Event took place in Nauela. Believe it or not, this does happen once in a while. For example, one day someone sold cucumbers in the market, and another day a student raised a question during class, and one day I used only 1 match and less than 10 minutes to light my charcoal stove, and yet another day my girls’ soccer team scored a goal during a real game.  Ok, so Big Important Events happen a lot.

But this time people came from all over Zambezia (the province I live in, basically like a state of Mozambique) and even a few from the other end of the country to celebrate the 100^th birthday of the Evangelical Church of Mihecane, located in Nauela.

The celebration lasted 2 days, and luckily in the middle of this rainy season it did not rain a single drop. At least, not one fell on my head. On Fridays, dozens of cars and pick-up trucks drove by bringing hundreds of singing people five miles down the road and into the bush where the church is located. Each group brought everything needed to prepare their own meals (kilos of beans and rice, along with cauldron-sized pots to prepare them in) and to sleep outside or in various abandoned buildings (tents, straw mats, blankets).

On Saturday I arrived in Mihecane perched on the back of a bike (someone else was pedaling). I had friends coming from other cities so I found them and then milled about marveling at the crowds that I don’t think Nauela had ever seen before. The main event of the day - a competition between 29 choral groups - began around 11, so I found a nice naturally well-lit spot to take pictures, and promptly got a sunburn.

At 5:30pm, when it was about to start getting dark and there were still 12 groups left to sing, I decided to start walking the 5-ish miles back home with 2 friends who were staying at my house. We had excellent luck and within 3 minutes of leaving, a pick-up truck pulled up to let us on. I settled onto the floor for a bumpy ride, listening to the people around me singing for all Nauela to hear.

We were welcomed home by poop splotches everywhere, left by a chicken that I accidentally named Gabriela. She and I had bonded during lunch the previous day after I bought her; she pecked her raw rice and I chewed my peanut butter sandwich, but I didn’t meant to name her since she would be my dinner for Saturday. But, all turned out well, and we had grilled chicken and good conversations that night.

I went back to Mihecane the next day on foot, arriving in time to see everyone packing up to go home. I caught another pick-up truck ride on the way back, and had another bout of excellent luck – just 2 minutes after I mentioned that I had been awaiting the return of pumpkin season since last March, I came across a woman selling a bucket of pumpkins, for 20 cents each.

So I bought all seven of them.

It was a good weekend.

I didn't know this many people knew that Nauela exists

Choral group with matching outfits

Animated choral group and Diva

The women stood in front and the men stood in back, so
the microphones only picked up the women's voices...

Crowds and headscarves.
This country is quite colorful.

Sitting in the back of a pick-up truck on the way home from the church.
Bumpy road, hence bumpy photo.

Singing in the pick-up truck!